What It’s Like Hiking the Epic Camino Francés: 7 Truths

Wondering what it’s like to hike the Camino Francés?

“Now is the time to give yourself the life you’ve always wanted. No one but you has the power to make it happen. Get out there and go for it!” I wrote those words on a scrap of paper, rolled it up, and left it in a basket for a future Camino Francés hiker to pick up for some encouragement. I grabbed my own little scrap of paper from the basket and told myself I would hold onto it until I finished my journey.

On June 1, 2023, I set out from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to hike the Camino Francés route of the Camino de Santiago. After 33 days of hiking and almost 500 miles, I finished in Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

Before I dive into what it’s like to hike the Camino Francés, please note that my experience is specific to the Camino Francés route. There are numerous Camino routes, and while there are similarities between them, some are very different. If you’re thinking to yourself, wait, there isn’t just one Camino? (trust me, I’ve been there too!), I encourage you to check out this article on all the different routes.

So, what is the Camino Francés like? Here are seven truths from my experience.

Your feet will hurt, and you will perpetually feel tired.

Sure, I was a little out of shape when I started the Camino Francés, but WOW. I am used to running marathons and hiking long distances, but I was not prepared for the physical challenge of the Camino. There’s just something about hiking 12+ miles every single day for 33 days that takes a toll on your body.

It didn’t help that my shoes were bad to begin with, but even if you have good shoes, your feet will swell. When I bought new shoes (Hoka Speedgoats), my feet were so swollen, I bought a half size larger. When I later finished the hike, my regular shoes barely fit me for a few days.

As much as I wanted to soak up all the fun of the Camino, I was very focused on caring for my body so I could finish. That meant napping every single day. My schedule after arriving at my destination usually involved showering, doing laundry, lunch if I didn’t get it on the road, and then taking a 1-3 hour nap. If I couldn’t sleep, I would relax reading my Kindle in bed.

Taking care of my body also meant not rushing my hikes each day and taking breaks when I needed them. There was always a breakfast break at some point, usually a short break to grab an Aquarius (the most common sports drink available), a lunch break for a bocadillo, and sometimes an occasional cerveza break.

If you’d like to learn more about typical Spanish foods, check out my Spanish Food and Drink Guide.

You won’t break the bank on the Camino Francés!

They say a month on the Camino Francés can cost as little as $1,000. I didn’t track my spending super closely, but I’d say that’s fairly true depending on where you stay.

All of my accommodations in 2023 ranged from as little as 7 to maybe 25 euros a night. The more expensive places were much fancier and not places I booked as often.

Pilgrim meals for dinners usually seemed to be around 12 euros. Breakfasts and lunches were much cheaper, coming in at under 10 euros, sometimes as little as 2-3 euros if, say, you just ordered a café con leche and a croissant.

You will have all (or most) of the comforts of home.

As much as I adore hiking, I wouldn’t say I’m much of a camper. I don’t think I’ll ever hike the Appalachian Trail. I like having a bathroom! Plus, having to carry a heavier pack and set up camp every day sounds much more physically exhausting.

The Camino was perfect for me because I was able to get in the long-distance endurance activity I enjoy while still having the comforts of home. I slept in a bed every night—sure it was sometimes a bit hot and could be more comfortable, but it was a bed. I ate out for every single meal. I showered every day. I had everything I needed.

You will see a variety of landscapes along the Camino Francés route.

I’ve always had a love for Spain ever since I studied abroad in Sevilla in the south, but I hadn’t seen much of the north. Hiking the Camino Francés was so wonderful for me because I got to see the north in such an intimate way.

I appreciated walking through four different comunidades autónomas (like states) in Spain. I saw the landscape change as I crossed over the Pyrenees Mountains, trekked through vineyards in the premier wine region, hiked through the flat and hot Meseta, and finished the journey in the green of Galicia (aka the Scotland of Spain).

I loved seeing some of the “second cities” of Spain, those cities that are nowhere near as large as Madrid or Barcelona but still fairly large and important cities in Spain: Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, and León. But almost more than that, I loved going through the much smaller towns, some of which only exist because of the Camino. It was so wonderful to see these places that I would never see otherwise.

You will meet some amazing people and maybe make some long-term friends.

It can be easy to make friends on the Camino Francés because it is such a popular route and many people tend to stick to similar hiking schedules. You often see the same people day after day, and when you’re hiking for 12+ miles each day, you’re bound to talk to someone.

The Camino attracts people of all ages, backgrounds, and nationalities. In spite of those differences, everyone has the Camino in common, and it helps bring you together. Sure, I made friends with a number of Americans who were close to my age, but I also made friends with people from all over the world and of all ages.

One man, a retired Spanish police officer, barely knew any English but made friends with everyone anyways. He laughed, sang, drank beer, and had fun, and it was infectious in spite of the language barrier.

It’s been almost a year now, and I keep in touch with a number of my Camino friends. I’ll even be visiting my friend Jana in Germany in September.

If you’re looking for peace, the Camino can help you find it.

As much as I enjoyed spending time with my Camino friends, I also had plenty of time to myself. It all felt very meditative and therapeutic.

There’s just something about escaping the realities of life and thinking only about your basic needs every day. I only had to focus on eating, sleeping, drinking, and walking from town to town. Focusing just on those things freed up so much mental energy.

I’m not saying the Camino will completely heal everything you’re trying to work through, but it’s a start. It gives you that time and mental space to contemplate life and any challenges you’re facing. For me, the Camino was exactly what I needed to get over a heartbreaking and surprising end to my engagement the year prior.

Many others around me were looking for some kind of peace and healing as well. Some were dealing with the loss of loved ones. Others were going through their own relationship struggles. All of us were trying to find some magic for ourselves on the trail.

The Camino Francés will truly be a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

I’ll never forget watching the sun rise over the Pyrenees Mountains, singing with nuns, making dinner with new friends, and spending lazy afternoons sipping tinto de verano in the sun.

And of course I’ll never forget completing my hike along the Camino Francés in Santiago de Compostela after 33 days. It was surreal. It was sad. The pain was over, but so was the journey, so was the fun. It was crazy to think we had all just hiked across the country together and now we’d be parting ways to return to our own countries.

On that last day, I finally opened that scrap of paper I had picked up and had carried for a while. It read, “Don’t let the loves lost keep you from loving fiercely again. LOVE UNAFRAID.” It was like the Camino was sending me off with just one last piece of Camino magic.

“Don’t let the loves lost keep you from loving fiercely again. LOVE UNAFRAID.”